Vincent and Francois Jouard

Vincent and Francois Jouard

Chassagne-Montrachet

White burgundy from the top village of the Cote d’Or has been a nightmare of a minefield during the most of the past 20 years. I have hardly dared dip my toe in the water, given the degree of risk and the expensive nature of any mistakes. It was therefore with relief as well as excitement that we found we could get hold of the white burgundy of our dreams again. A tip off from a friend William Kelley, a truly exceptional taster, pointed me in the direction of Francois Jouard, and there was not a shred of disappointment for all their wines were precisely pure expressions of their individual climates. My tasting notes were a succession of big positive ticks, starting with the ‘perfect’ Chassagne Montrachet Blanc village wine and followed by the Premier Crus.

Le Champ Gain, similar but with greater intensity, next La Maltroie showing extra weight and richness from the deeper soils. Morgeot, stronger but less graceful. Les Chaumèes is lighter with more finesse from its poor rocky soils, leaning towards Puligny in style perhaps. And finally, Chenevottes, a wine that combined both power and delicacy, charm with complexity, intensity on the nose, and a length on the palate.