Clos des Baies

Clos des Baies

While new discoveries in the less well trodden vineyards of the wine world are not unusual, finding a hidden secret in somewhere like Bordeaux is a somewhat unexpected pleasure. For the past twenty years no less, Philippe Baillarguet has been the ‘maitre de chai’ at none other than Chateau Ausone, the vineyard and wine that I have held in the greatest possible respect and indeed affection in not just St.Emilion, but the whole of Bordeaux. When Philippe showed me a cask sample of his 2021 vintage in April this year, I immediately quizzed him as to the precise location of his vines and when he revealed the site of the 0.57 hectare plot, I commented that it must be adjacent to Tertre Roteboeuf, every vintage of whose wine I have so enthusiastically imported for the UK market since 1978, though Philippe was I believe unaware of my close relationship with that property. Not unnaturally I could only with difficulty contain my enthusiasm and it demanded a visit at the earliest possible opportunity. This presented itself in July and fully justified a special 36 hours trip to Bordeaux in order to walk the vines, taste the wines and discuss the possibilities with Philippe and his twin brother Bruno.

The wine here is two thirds Merlot and one third Cabernet Franc. The style is opulent (shades of Tertre Roteboeuf then, but with a difference too), very expressive without being in any way forced, and the percentage of new oak casks (30%) used in the cellar is much less than the 100% employed by Francois Mitjavile at Tertre Roteboeuf. I have wasted little time in accepting every bottle offered by them.

crédit photo : @Marie-Pierre Dardouillet