Clement & Caroline Lavallee

Clement and Caroline Lavallee show the sort of “can do better” attitude that is not invariably evident throughout Burgundy. Instead of simply relying on traditional habits and techniques, we see here a very determined ambition to push the boundaries beyond the normal expectations. The result is that even the Aligoté hits a target of far greater precision and intensity than is typical for the variety. If it seems more expensive than most examples of that wine, that is because it is a great deal better, finer indeed than a lot of Chablis. Purity and precision are obvious throughout here. The fruit is harvested on the pH rather than the potential alcohol, and a very low pH too, with a target of 3.20 to give the best defence against oxidation. Another happy result is lower alcohol. I like to think that Clement’s (not Caroline’s – I did ask) eyebrows that sit atop all his labels suggest that every stage of the process from grape to bottle has been closely watched over or perhaps if eyes are the window to the soul, that these wines are the expression of the man himself. They certainly are quite something, uncompromising and in most instances available in tiny quantities.