Cyril Testut

Cyril Testut

I sometimes taste wines from Chablis which leave me wondering whether, if tasted blind, I would correctly identify their origin. With Cyril Testut’s wines however, there is no room for doubt since they are classic examples of that steely, saline style that sets true Chablis apart from its Burgundian cousins further south in the Côte d’Or or the Mâconnais. His tiny mediaeval cellar in the heart of the town reveals the results from fruit picked in some very good sites, mostly on the right bank which is home to all the Chablis grands crus.  His ‘Rive Droite’ bottling is premier cru quality at village wine price, the vines being adjacent to the Montée de Tonnerre where he also has vines. On the left bank, he has the Premier Cru Les Forets, an enclave within the better known Montmains. A recently opened bottle of the 2016 vintage was finally beginning to open up to reveal its full character and have me screaming for oysters, a picture of sharp flint and salinity with a lime-scented freshness, classic Chablis indeed. We also get a tiny quantity of the great grand cru Les Grenouilles, a wine that rewards even more patience. It is always good to find a chardonnay wine that speaks of place more than just grape and here is a great example.